Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Jaan Par Andre

Digital media is highly influential. Glancing through photos, reading illustrative words have a cogent effect on me. i feel what i read, crave what i see. And of course the power of marketing contributes.. i've already lost count of the number of articles i read about Jaan, and the talented Andre Chiang.

Nothing beats self-experiencing.

Jaan's 3-course set lunch priced at $58++ irrefutably speaks extravagance for most people. But with a tipple of the kitchen's hands, it may turn out to be one of the most memorable spend. A panaromic view at 70th storey paired with posh, witty french cuisine... resplendently unforgettable.

The pre-meal nibble was so unexpectedly novel, you would hesitate a moment until the waitress steps forwards to clear your qualms. These elongations are edible! In brown & black they came, Jaan's outrageously thin grissini sticks featured parmesan and squid ink respectively. the former clinches the tastier edge.

I'm a sucker for breads. Whatever bread you throw me with, i'll gladly accept. But onions and walnuts particularly hit the soft spot. I first worked on onion roll's crackling crust and soft interiors... disappointed by the specks of dried onions that didn't quite come through (some restaurants have got impeccably tasty onion loaves). Then olive roll & ciabatta, both passable.

My eyes instantly reacted to this beautiful alignment. Panache de fruit de mer spoke graceful tunes with an assortment of seafood, tapenade de Provence anchovy sauce and pretty colours. Texture variation is its main highlight- from soft squid rings, seabass, silky trout to the transitions of crispy brioche, seasoned potatoes and tiny jelly cubes... all's a play in the mouth. Absolutely loved the presentation.

Foie Gras a la forestiere doubled the captivation. Beaneath that dull, uninviting blackish brown & buckwheat brioche circles laid a delish wild mushroom fricassee with mashy hot foie gras jelly. I really am not an advocater of foie gras but this clever conversion to gelatinous form eradicates the cloying richness (& guilt) and gets me scooping for more.

Main courses just as eye-opening. I tucked into my Gambas aux popcorn like a child in the toys department. Simply enjoyed the delicious gambas wrapped in pancetta robe, so moreish that two just wouldn't suffice. Pancetta packs comparatively less grease then its bacon substitute and best when the chef helms it at such dry, crispy state.

The popcorn was, your normal popcorn unaltered, but what cooped under that pair of popcorn raviolis was the main show. A gentle slit sent some impactful creamy yellow splurting out, then takes me aback with its compatible corn flavour. Also present were those modest crispy shellfish chips, which i crunched up to the very last bit. What an adventure.

Kurobuta never fails in tempting the pork lovers. Joude De Kurobuta Grille was a carnivoriously satisfying dish (portions ignored) of timely chargrilled kurobuta cheek, caramelized baby onions and heady smoked basil oil.

Not even desserts flopped (over) an inch. Chiang encroaches into his very own modernistic styles and ends lunch on a gratifying note. Chocolat -classic Ngyanbo chocolate palet stoked light traces of praline amongst pleasurable cocoa layers. My only grouse had to be the overly aerated Tahiti Vanilla icecream, which melts almost too swiftly.

Nothing gets more novel than his Tarte au Citron. Mini sticks stood around on balls of cream-supports like soliders planted on attacking forts. Those sugar-coated churros + lovely lemon cream were both so delightful to chomp on. And that encircled scoop of grapefruit campari granite refreshingly lifts the dish into perfect sour-sweet equations. Just the way i like it!

Now this is not adulation for an affable (yes, and charming) chef. i was truly fascinated with my meal at Jaan, and the resourceful brain juices of chef Andre Chiang... which made the $58++ worthwhile.

2 Stamford Road
Level 70, Equinox complex
Swissotel the Stamford
6837 3322

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