Somebody save me... i think i am sinking into the Cugini well!
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Tempt me like this (words & photos responsible) and chances are, my resistance vanishes. I just had to leap to Club Street one evening to experience that stupefying Frutti di Mare dish.
Whenever a 'Marinara red & hearty' craving strikes, i know exactly what i desire.. It has to be fresh handmade pasta cooked aldente or slightly beyond, coalesced with a rich flavorful tomato & herb sauce, fresh seafood and a sprinkle of ground black pepper to seal the deal. Amateurish renditions would only leave it awkwardly hanging.
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If you still remember these guys from Robertson Walk (formerly known as Cugini Ristorante), they've now relocated as a casual Trattoria in Club Street. Much ceremoniousness axed but a new comfortable, laid-back charm exudes from the Ristorante-to-Trattoria transformation.
When food comes to talk, chef-owners Mauro & Gerri don't disappoint.
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As usual, nothing better activates my stomach than a warm yeasty homemade hunk. We nibbled on soft dense whites and decorous focaccia cubes centered with cute tomato depressions. What's most interesting, is their unusually diluted tomato-based dip that lends a veneer overlay to the bread.
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This was it. Cite Seafood Pasta to the waiter and he'll nod.
Just look at that brilliant sauce yelling phenomenal. A unique seafood-enriched flavor beneath sheens of country italian notes, olives & full-bodied tomato goodness i fell for. It tasted so so robust and complex, like as if a million ingredients had gone in there to mystify you.... practically impossible to decipher.
The chef adorns it with (paltry) pieces of mackerel, squid & shrimp and made the sauce ultra thick in consistency for close-knitted coating. The homemade spaghetti was cooked firm to the bite, hitting aldente almost immaculately. I twirled & twirled, scraped & scraped until everything was polished off. Delizioso.
This is indeed an addiction.
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If pasta happens to not be your cup of tea, Cugini's risotto is another made-to-order alternative.
Rejoice when restaurants notify you of a 15-minute wait for your risotto, cos likely you'll be getting grains cooked from scratch just after you say "one risotto please". And this is a determining sign of quality. Pre-cooked (& reheated) risottos are habitually overcooked mushy or congee-ish, which puts the honourable dish to shame. Yet unfortunately due to the grains' fortified nature, it is unfeasible for most restaurants to accede to the demanding duration.
Cugini's Risotto mari e monti ($22.90) is clearly a lighter version, creamed simply by stock and the natural starches of italian riso. You don't get much creamy-cheesy gratification but the result is comparably palatable. Prime issue: too little seafood again, almost too beggarly to uncover.
We wrapped up with a White Chocolate Panna Cotta ($7.90) with raspberry sauce. Soft jelly-like cream pudding with a pronounced body of white chocolate. Beware this can get potentially gerlat if not for the small size.
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one last closing shot bcos this is one darn good pasta!
I wonder why despite its popularity & credibility (almost like a signature!), the seafood pasta is still absent from the menu. Is it not available everyday, or are they trying to create a mirage of exclusivity?
Anyways. Since we cannot rewind it, the other 3Rs apply. I'm gonna have to Recollect, Revisit & Repeat it. Soon.
Cugini Trattoria Pizzeria
87 Club St
#01-01
6221 3791
Very nice!
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